June 30th 2011

Tacul - Arete des Diables

The weather has been pretty horrible since I’ve been back but a brief two day weather window appeared and I was feeling psyched to head up high and get acclimatised again. Ben O Connor and myself decided to do a climb that I’ve been wanting to do for a long time to recce for any future shoots, and it didnt disappoint. We had hoped to race up it but not being acclimatised and nasty snow conditions slowed us down quite alot. However it was a beautiful day and we climbed it at a relaxed pace with 8 other ENSA trainees! Amazingly there hasn’t been anyone up it this year yet so there was alot of cornice work to be dealt with, but this is maybe the finest arete that I have ever climbed in the Mont Blanc area.

Ben arriving at the Col de Diables shortly after sunrise

Stitched pan from the Brenva side of Mont Blanc on the right to the Jorasses on the left

Awesome views back down the ridge, the top of the Grand Capucin poking out on the left

Ben arriving at the top of Pointe Chaubert

Two ENSA boys on the right on the Pointe Mediane. Mont Maudit on the left

Ben on the ‘crux’ pitch of the Pointe Mediane

More ENSA boys on the Pointe Carmen. Mont Blanc in the background

Classic Chamonix terrain!

Looking down on the Pointe Carmen

Stitch pan of the ENSA boys on the Pointe Isolee looking back on the Pointe Carmen

Topping out of the route and a short walk to the Tacul. Mont Blanc in the background

The Alpine Exposures coffee table photo book