We headed up to do the Desecures-Robach on the Grandes Jorasses yesterday but had to bail part way up the face. The ice has not quite formed yet so you either hit patches of really old rotten ice or just half consolidated snow. It is showing signs of settling but its too early yet. Interestingly a party had bailed off the route only a couple of days before us by the looks of it so they must have come to the same conclusion. Witnessed a nasty rock fall come down the Croz spur too whilst on the route which very nearly hit two climbers. We were climbing in summer thermal top and light fleece so its a little warm still I think. Colder temps will make things good again though