July 20th 2010

Tacul - Gervasutti Pillar

Headed up the Gervasutti Pillar two days ago and ended up massively underestimating it. Its never too hard but it is long. Amazing climbing nevertheless on incredible granite.

From the base of the red pillar though you now either have to go straight up it or contour round it to the right involving some harder rock than the route and some interesting mixed climbing. Thanks to Will for leading the rock here! The normal way is to skirt round left of the Red Pillar but I really wouldnt recommend it for the moment- we saw two enormous rockfalls come down that way when we were about to enter it so decided to abort the voie normal (ie big enough so that the rock was trembling underfoot). Whilst we were racing up the route this last section took a long time as we had to do some new route finding as well as ice climbing with just walking axes and one ski touring axe.

Definitely recommend the route but just be prepared for some more climbing directly up the Red Tower or contour round to the right.

On the lower section of the Gervasutti at sun rise, © Jon Griffith

Will entering the 80m chimney pitch, © Jon Griffith

© Jon Griffith

Will nearing the last of the Gervasutti pillar, © Jon Griffith

Summit of the Tacul, © Jon Griffith

Descending from the summit at sunset, © Jon Griffith

Amazing sunset over the seracs of the Tacul, © Jon Griffith

The Alpine Exposures coffee table photo book